
Day 3: Gamla Stan and the Royal Palace
Gamla Stan: Stockholm’s Old City
On its own small island and accessible from our Airbnb by foot was beautiful Gamla Stan, with its colorful 16th and 17th century architecture, charming squares, and narrow cobblestone streets and alleyways. We enjoyed both breakfast and lunch in small cafes, and popped into several small shops and a gallery featuring Roma folk art.
We visited the Riddarholmen Church, where the Swedish monarchs are buried, and spent a couple hours wandering through the Royal Palace, where we enjoyed both beautiful interiors and the dazzling Treasury, featuring the royal regalia. Our timing also allowed us to see the parade and formal changing of the guard in the palace courtyard.
A “Viking” Dinner
We tend to avoid restaurants designed solely for tourists. Truly. But when I read the very positive reviews for “Viking-inspired” Airfur, I made a reservation.
Located on a quiet street in Gamla Stan, the basement setting felt like a cross between a Nordic cave dwelling and a medieval tavern. The “outside” world felt suddenly far away. When we entered, the costumed host asked for our names and place of origin, and announced us to the other diners (“Melanie and Johnny, from the city of apples!”) and, as everyone cheered, we were seated at a candlelit communal table and enjoyed the live traditional music.
We were served housemade bread, a fantastically creamy prawn chowder and unique meat/veggie dishes that really exceeded expectations. Johnny even sampled authentic mead. This wasn’t mediocre tourist fare, but fine and original dining, in a fun setting that made us forget it was 2024.






